Thursday, 25 July 2013

Origami Fashion

This is something that has fascinated me for ages. Origami being incorporated into clothes.
When I made my collection last year I touched a little bit on creating structure within garments and found it really cool how you can create a 3D shape from a flat pattern piece so recently I've been having a look about on the internet to see how to create more elaborate shapes in garments!

When I first started looking into ways in which origami could be incorporated into garments I thought of how to create little flowers from folding fabric and using these as decoration on an outfit. I've done this a few times already through watching youtube videos and the like and find that it can look very feminine and that the folds in the fabric add to the appeal.

However, recently I started to look online at how entire garments can me made from origami techniques and was AMAZED at what some designers have achieved, especially Issey Miyaki. I had researched him in high school for a project and was fascinated by him but had no idea about his work with paper folding and it's incorporation into his catwalk shows.

Examples of two different Issey Miyaki outfits from different collections:


What I found unbelievable is that the garments fold down into beautiful flat shapes!

When i was in my 2nd year at university I tried a little bit of paper folding in the back of a garment but I could never do it to the incredible standard like those above. I didn't use it to create any structure either, instead it was just as a detail on the back of a dress but the effect still looked really good for a first try!


The whole point in origami is that you don't need to cut the paper to create the shapes and you also only need the one sheet of paper, which for a garment means you'd only need one piece of fabric but this is really complicated to do which is why it's more common for origami to be incorporated into garments through the use of multiple fabrics which are altered to create both fit and structure.

There is a youtube channel by Arif Khan and he does some incredible designs with origami that create wonderful patterns in a garment instead of structure and they look pretty easy to do when you have a knowledge of pattern pieces.
Here is a link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1S91Jl8ufw

So yeah the art of origami can be great for use in garments as there are so many different ways to produce shapes and patterns on fabric. Here are a few of my favorites that I've found online in my research of the topic, as you can see the possibilities are endless and each garment looks amazing in it's own right.











As you can see some fantastic shapes and structures can be made from folding paper, below is an image in which I had a stab at making an origami flower for use in creating some structure on a garment.



The only problem with 3D origami pattern cutting is that it can produce some crazy shapes which makes the wear-ability of the garment become compromised which is why it is more likely to be seen on the catwalk instead of in the likes of high street retailers.
Hopefully in the future there will be more of a crossover from catwalk to high street in regards to origami influence in fashion but until then I'm happy to see where the designs go, especially in regards to Issey Miyake because his designs were already incredible and can only get more complicated so it'll be interesting to see what he does or if he even decides to introduce something to a more accessible market.


Monday, 22 July 2013

Drawdrobe Interview

DRAWDROBE is the blog of 23 year old Natasha, a freelance writer from England who has many accomplishments under her belt including being the fashion editor of the student magazine at St Andrews University (yes, the very same one Will and Kate went to) as well as regular articles in 'The Creative Book' and 'The Skinny.'
Using her blog Natasha aims to help those wanting to get a foot in the door of the creative industry through regular posts about current internships as well as her musings on everything from fashion to beauty and interiors to travel.

In order to further improve the 'Careers' section of her blog to include advice for those wanting to get into the fashion courses that universities offer, Natasha reached out to me for a quick word on what it's like being a Fashion Technologist and how I came to be at my university...

http://drawdrobeblog.co.uk/careers/fashion-career-advice-fashion-technology-degree/

Saturday, 20 July 2013

Kinghorn

As the sun has continued to shine here in Scotland and because I managed to finish work at 12, me and the family decided to take a trip to Kinghorn to enjoy the beach.
I took my new camera tripod to see what kind of pictures I could take and even decided to do my first 'outfit' post. Kinghorn was absolutely stunning, the beach was quiet considering the weather was stunning and there was a tonne of pretty stuff along the harbor which gave me a few good pictures. 
The photos I took of myself aren't great because I've never done it before but you can see what I'm wearing which is the important part!
I didn't want to have my legs out due to sunburn so I kept my outfit simple. The dress you can see me wearing in the photos is one I bought in London and is from Miss Selfridge and my wedges are a pair I got from a friend from Topshop. As we went out straight from work I have very little make up on and my hair is a mess but next time I promise I'll make an effort!!
























Monday, 15 July 2013

Inside my sewing box

So I look at quite a few different and new blogs on a daily basis to see what else is going on in the world and because I like to get an idea on what sort of thing people like to read and recently I've come across a lot of 'What's in my Handbag' posts. Now, the contents of my handbag are actually pretty dull, purse, mobile, wrappers, spare change etc so I decided to show you what I have in my sewing box that I take to university with me because that is definitely WAY more interesting!

This also ties in with me trying to shift the focus of my blog posts back to fashion and also I feel like I should do at least 2 blog posts a week to keep me happy.

I also think it's good to do a post on this to give a general idea of whats required to help anyone considering a university course or class in pattern cutting because when I started at my university course I had very little to go on until I actually got there.

So, yeah, here is my sewing box and all of the tools I use on a daily basis as a pattern cutter! And for those of you who don't know what I do, a pattern cutter drafts and creates pattern pieces which are then used to create garments. It can be pretty tricky depending on how difficult the design is but it gives you a cool insight to some tools of the trade...

Okay so here is the sewing box, as you can see there is a whole load of stuff in it ranging from postit notes to scissors and various blades... I'll admit when I received all this after ordering it in 1st year I was shocked because some of the stuff looks like torture implements! It's very much a mixture of professional tools seen commonly with fashion students and other little tools I've picked up here and there and find quite useful.
Measuring tape...very self explanatory, I use this to measure the body, for example the length of a dress from the waist down etc. This is pretty handy in pattern cutting too instead of using my set square and also because a measuring tape can go around the body whereas the set square can only go in straight lines. It goes without saying that everyone in fashion needs a tape measure!! If you can preferably get one that operates in both centimeters and inches .
Pins and a pin cushion, oh my gosh I only invested in the pin cushion wrist band last year and I have no clue how I got through the first two years at university without it! A pattern cutting table can become very cluttered with pens, scissors, tape measures and long rolls of paper so there's nothing worse than having your pins join the mix. I'm also very territorial of my stuff and don't like it going too far so this wristband for me to keep my pins on is great! Also it's fantastic for when you're working on a mannequin as you're not going between that and the table setting down or picking up the pins you need in order to fit a garment. Life saver!!
Assorted needles, I don't know why but a hand sewing needle is so hard to find in our university workshop so I bought my own. Accidents happen and sometimes you have to resort to hand sewing in order to fix it. There's been a few times when I've accidentally overlocked a hole into a garment and instead of going over it again (which can reduce the seam allowance) I just try and limit the damage by hand sewing it. If I'm lucky my lecturer doesn't notice and my grade stays good!!
This is an awl (hope I spelt that right) and it looks a little like a torture implement but I use it to keep a pattern in place when I'm pivoting a dart, more commonly I just use it to put holes in pattern pieces when I can't be bothered to find a hole punch haha!! Its not a tool I use very often but still handy to have.
This is a drill hole, it's used to make a hole in the garment where a dart is (that's the common use of it anyway) but again, I sometimes use this to make a hole in my pattern when I can't find a hole punch!
Now I can't remember what this is called but it's used to trace around pattern pieces, I have never used this before but I've seen a bunch of people in class trace their pattern pieces with it and it does appear to work, personally I'm old fashioned and just use a pencil and ruler.
Pattern notchers! This is a rather complex looking tool considering it just puts a little rectangle cut in paper to mark a notch in the pattern. I use this so much so yeah, get one!
Various snips and means of undoing stitches. The ones on the far right are a pair I got at the start of 1st year and have never really worked, I dunno if they're blunt or slightly broken because the two blades close but don't actually snip the thread. The stitch pickers on the left are my go to for undoing any stitch, hem, overlocking that's gone wrong but the blade in the middle is definitely the fastest way to undo any stitch, slices through them like a hot knife through butter.

Thread scissors, self explanatory, just use them to snip the thread on my sewing machine/garment once I'm finished with it.
Various blades, I got these last year to cut through some leather fabric I had because it was much easier to use these than to actually cut into the fabric however I've found recently that they are also great for cutting out corners and curves on pattern pieces and keeping them neat.
Sellotape! good for my big patterns where I need to attach two pieces together but also for getting hair and dust off my garments! That is until I bought my lint roller (below) which was an absolute godsend for my collection this year (see previous post) as I wanted all my garments to be handed in in pristine condition!

Pattern hooks! I've started my own little collection over the years and they are fantastic for in the house. These are used to keep patterns neat so they can be hung on a railing alongside your clothes but they're also great in the house as it means I can hang my patterns on the back of my door for future reference. My room is very small and all my patterns take up quite a lot of room so it's great to get them off the floor!
These are a small collection of my scissors for pattern cutting. The two on the right are used for cutting fabric, I prefer to use the smaller silver ones for cutting into more fiddly bits and the ones on the left are for cutting my paper patterns. From day one it was installed into our heads that you never use your fabric scissors to cut paper as they can blunt so easily and stop being so good at cutting neat lines in your fabric so it's a top tip to buy specialty scissors for fabric cutting.
Hemming web is great, I get this particular kind from Hobby Craft and I use it mostly at home to finish my garments because I don't have an overlocker but it's great stuff, my mum would always swear by this stuff when I was little and now I do!
Pattern chalk, I just bought some more in red and blue because there's nothing worse than trying to cut out a white chalk outline on white fabric but it's great stuff. Chalk is better than some of the pencils and stuff I've seen for tracing around patterns as it can just brush off instead of having to put them in the wash to get the pattern marks off.
And finally safety pins, they are a must have for anyone working with clothes including tailors and stylists, rips happen, calculations can go wrong and it's up to the safety pin to save the day when you want something to fit better or you want to try and cover up and nicks in the fabric!

So that's my sewing box for university. As you can see some of the stuff is pretty common and easy to get a hold of whilst others are a bit trickier.
Here is the website I got all of my tools from http://www.eastmanstaples.co.uk/ its a great site and easy to work and if I remember correctly all of the stuff arrived in good timing and I even got a free bag to carry it all in.
Some of the stuff is pretty costly but there are usually cheaper alternatives on ebay and the like, a lot of my class get things off amazon as well which is where I usually purchase all of my books for research!